Our Last Week

We are back in Buenos Aires and getting ready to leave tomorrow. We thought for this last blog we would include some general impressions and a tip or two but first…The first two days back were a bit rough. We signed up for a Saturday night sunset cruise. We thought this would be perfect to end our time here, a bit romantic and beautiful. On the positive side we met a wonderful couple from the Boston area and so enjoyed their company we met them for lunch on Monday. Tip #1: don’t book a cruise with unlimited alcohol if you are over 40. As we are 40 years past that, it goes without saying that we were the oldest people on this boat. On the not so positive side: for the first hour it didn’t leave its mooring. Upon boarding we were immediately directed below deck where there were two bars set up. The music was so loud Dennis had to take his hearing aids out. We spent our time shouting with Kris and Jim and trying to figure out what we could drink as there wasn’t any wine. We were in Argentina weren’t we??

Sunset from the “cruise”

After an hour we left the dock only to go in a circle around the slip. It didn’t take very long and it stopped briefly at one end for a partial view of the sun spilling out from one side of a high rise. Then back we went to the original mooring and up and out of the boat. We said good night to Kris and Jim and Uberred back to the hotel. 

Along the side walk of the hotel are many small restaurants with outside seating. We choose one and had a very nice dinner. Mine came with a salad. As I was eating it, I wondered if that was a good idea. I had not been sick at all but the majority of restaurants had been from recommendations. It seemed a bit dicey. And it was. Wearing white pants to Uruguay the next day was not a good idea. Do I really need to go into detail with this? You get it, right? Adding a golf cart to the cobbled stone streets of Colonia Del Sacramento didn’t help either. And off Dennis went to find a pharmacy and Imodium. The charming pharmacist didn’t understand his pantomime and brought him a laxative! Luckily he could read it and did end up with Imodium. 🥲

Tip #2: Pay attention to your instincts, if in doubt, don’t eat it.

Tip #3 for women: when going out for the day to an unknown area always have pads handy.

Obviously, I survived and we did meet Jim and Kris for lunch on Monday. Getting to know them just a little was worth a somewhat limited time on the water.  

Looking back on our time in Argentina we realize we had the good fortune to meet some incredible people. We were helped and supported all along the way. We were standing in line to board a plane when a lady approached us. She asked me if we were over 60. I responded, “Oh yes, we’re 81.” She said then you need to be in the priority boarding line. I was confused because we were economy. She explained that in Argentina if you’re over 60, you board in priority. She and her husband engaged us in small talk, told us a bit about themselves—she is an international translator and they’ve traveled all over the world. They introduced us to their daughter and wished us well in our travels.

Another wonderful experience for me was on an airplane from Iguassu Falls to Rio de Janiero. Two beautiful girls got on the flight, one in our row and one across the aisle. I had to ask them if they were from Ethiopia and of course their parents were but had been airlifted to Israel. Do you remember the Falasha Jews near Gondar? Yes, the very ones. In the covert Israeli missions between 1984-1985 and again in 1991 over 22,000 Ethiopian Jews were rescued from famine and civil war. The Beta Israel communities had existed in Ethiopia for over 2000 years, maintaining an ancient and distinct form of Judaism. Oral tradition suggests they are descendants of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba.  The girls didn’t know a lot about their heritage but they know a bit about their parents going to Israel. They asked me if I knew Amharic so I was able to say hello and asked them how they were. Impressive right??

And then there was a conversation with two women from London, both police officers, one retired and one still working. And the conversation with the two young female engineers from Denmark who are very proud of their country. They couldn’t resist a comment about Greenland but who couldn’t understand that. We certainly could. And so it goes, just small rewarding glimpses into the lives of others. 

Tip #4: Be open to those around you.

And finally, our last experience was the asado with Betty and Marcelo. We began with a mate experience provided by their daughter Veronica. Dennis was sure he could remember the names Veronica and Betty. I crossed my fingers that he wouldn’t begin calling Marcelo, Archie. It was a wonderful way to end our time in Buenos Aires. There were 8 of us for the asado, just 4 for the mate experience. Betty shared stories of starting the business and of hosting asado throughout the years. The space that is used for these events is very unusual with a beautiful patio and then a dining area that includes the grill so that you can see everything as it is being done. Marcelo only uses wood for grilling—no charcoal, no gas.

And so we say adios to Argentina and to all of the wonderful people we have met.

From the señor—

Wow! That was an honest account of what went on during our “romantic” sunset cruise. If you enjoy drinking (which I do) this cruise is for you. If you are looking for anything else—nope. The music was so loud, conversation? Very difficult. Just smile and nod. 🙂 Cruise? Kind of like sitting in a jacuzzi and letting the jets blow you around the tub. Not much to see unless someone gets “upended.”

As far as Cindy’s episode with stomach discomfort (or as I usually call it — the s_ _ ts). I think I’ll defer to her description except for this caveat: she asked me to stay close behind her to eliminate any gossip or detection. Had we known what was going to happen she’d have packed rain gear. All in all another adventure to share with our loyal friends and neighbors—that’s you!

Today we pack, relax and try to shed our remaining Argentine pesos which apparently aren’t negotiable anywhere else in the world except Argentina. I plan to drink as much of it as I can. 🥴

See ya back in the states on our return. Chau and thanks for joining us!

Argentina for the Day

Back into Argentina we went with Gabriel leading the way to the other side of Iguassu Falls. He picked us up a 6:45 to beat the traffic into Argentina. We were joined by the two UK women, Alison and Sheila and the woman from Canada, Enid. Today three more joined this merry band—two young women engineers from Denmark (who only snickered once about Greenland) and a young woman from Australia who has been traveling in South America for six months. We arrived at the border and the park. There we were stopped by a small band of cavorting South American Coati. With their striped tails and big eyes they jumped from tree to fence rail. And undaunted by humans with their long pointed noses up in the air it was as if they ware about to say, “This is our playground, get out of the way.”

From there we joined about two hundred others on the coaches of a park electric train. It carried us to a 1000 meter bridge over the rushing water of the Iguazu River to view the falls as they plummeted down into the abyss and joined the Paraná river. It leads to the Devil’s Throat. Along the way we encountered at least 3 species of butterfly, one resembled a Monarch, one was black and white with a dash of red on the edge of the wings, and one was only black and white. They were very fast little creatures and it was impossible to focus and snap in time to capture them.

We continued on to the falls, heading toward the clouds of mist. the closer we got, the wetter the walkway. finally there was the roar of the water, each drop racing the others plunging down into a great ball of water and then pushing off and racing into the river. Farther down the walkway the mist was so dense I had to put the camera away to protect it.

Walking back, it was necessary to step into the shade whenever we came upon it. The reward for stopping? My back heaved a sigh of relief but there was a greater reward. Perched in the branches of the trees were beautiful birds—yellow, black, white, a dash of bright blue. I was so caught up with them that Dennis had to remind me that we were part of a group and had to keep moving. Crossing another section of the walkway we spotted a dashing black and white cormorant with outstretched wings lifted to the sun.

The vastness of the green is broken by these birds, animals and butterflies, along with the flowers—purple yellow, black, white, blue, and pinks dot the green. The iron rich red soil produces thick dense vegetation. Looking at this thick dense vegetation I remembered the story of the girl who dropped out of the sky into the jungle still strapped in her airplane seat. The   survival story of Juliane Koepcke was made into a movie, Wings of Hope by Werner Herzog. I looked at this tightly packed jungle and couldn’t imagine how she even moved, much less made it to safety.

Dennis is off on another trek with our newly assembled group, following Gabriel to yet another view of the cataract. He is armed with the camera and I’m sure he’ll come back with photos and stories. After his Portuguese all I can to do is warn you—beware of his Spanish!

To top off the day we took a helicopter ride over the falls. It was my first time and I think it will be my last planned one. I found the few bumps a bit scary and the banking with this fabulously fat or pleasantly plump one buckled in nest to the door unnerving. But what magnificent views!

Today before we started packing we went to the Bird Sanctuary. It was started by a British couple to provide shelter for endangered species of birds and to take in rescued birds. It was a photographer’s paradise. It’s open with only some areas of netted space and a few contained spaces. It is beautifully designed with plenty of places to stop and rest and even to cool off. I’m going to try to restrain myself and only put in a sampling of the birds and butterflies. To see them all, you’re invited to come to the house to watch the video and sample an empanada or two.

Life in Iguassu according to Dennis—

First of all, I’ve got to give Cindy credit for trekking the Iguassu Falls. She’s been having quite a bit of back pain for the past few months and I was concerned about how much she’d actually be able to walk. She was a trooper and despite the pain, exceeded my expectations. 

She knew when she’d reached her limit and gave me the camera saying, “I can’t do it, you go on and take lots of pictures.” She didn’t throw her arm up over her brow and break down in tears sobbing—but what was I to do? This was a moral dilemma. Go on without her? Gabriel, our guide assured me he would stay with her and she would surely meet me after I completed the trek. But??

What would a man with character and love in his heart do? What would you do? After throughly searching both character, heart and soul—I made what I consider the right choice. I went on without her. You can thank me for some of the pictures you’re seeing of Iguassu Falls that you wouldn’t have otherwise seen. I guess you could say, I did it for you! But please, don’t shower me with praise, cuz that’s just the kinda guy I am. Always looking out for others. 🤣

Foz do Iguaçu

 Foz in Portuguese means mouth of a river and Iguaçu in Tipi-Guarani means great or big water. This designated UNESCO world Heritage site features over 275 falls. This morning Gabriel a guide for G-Adventures took us on a tour of the Brazilian side of the falls. They are absolutely magnificent. We were hoping to go for a helicopter ride and to the bird sanctuary but a heavy rain prevented that so perhaps tomorrow or the next day. I think the only way to describe the falls is visually. What would be the words to describe such a spectacular sight? Roaring, gigantic, plummeting, green, mist enshrouded?

Dennis speaks…

Today we visited Iguassu Falls and it was spectacular. If you look up largest waterfalls in the world you have to be more specific. Height, length, volume? We’ve now seen three that qualify in some way: Iguassu, Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, and of course, Niagara Falls somewhere in North America. 😢 We can’t say United States anymore without bringing up many questions, expressions of horror, etc. We’ve seen all three. They were all fantastic but Victoria Falls would top my list. 

We had planned on a helicopter ride over the falls today but rain set in and squelched that plan so we’re shooting for the day after tomorrow.

Tomorrow we’ll again see Iguassu Falls but this time from the Argentine side. Two countries, Argentina and Brazil border it and Paraguay touches it as well.  

Stay tuned for more information on the helicopter ride if the weather permits. Until then, contanto—(so long in Portuguese). Impressed? If not, “voce pode beijar minha bunda.” That’s “you can kiss my a—s,” also in Portuguese. 🤭

An Exhausting Entrance into Iguassu Falls

 Thinking we needed time for the airport lines we left our Mendoza hotel at 12:30 AM for a flight leaving at 3:15 AM to Rio de Janiero. We arrived at the airport, went straight to the Trip Store to buy a luggage tag and get my bag to be checked wrapped. When I picked it up in Mendoza after arriving from Ushuaia, the tag was gone and the zipper was broken. Dennis fixed it but I didn’t trust it. Finally we were on the plane and soon sleeping until… Flying in this part of the world at this time of year seems to often  produce unexpected white knuckle turbulence. It has happened on all of our recent flights. Dennis still prefers it to bus travel. Once in Rio we were told we had to recheck our luggage, redo security, etc. etc. But finally after about 18 hours we were in our hotel. Our G-Adventure starts tomorrow.

Today we walked about in the city of Foz do Iguaçu. And then booked a dinner cruise on the Iguazú River and the Paraná river. As we arrived music was coming from the boat. Very soon people began leaving the boat some dressed almost entirely in white with dashes of blue and many in colorful patterned outfits. Two Catholic priests joined the leave taking also dressed in white cassocks. They were all taking part in a religious river celebration, the Festival of Our Lady of Navigators. It is one of the largest religious festivities in southern Brazil. The Catholic Church synced it with the Afro-Brazilian celebration of lemarjá, goddess of sea and water.

Once we boarded, the cruise was very relaxing. Both rivers flow through red clayed banks filled with dense emerald, olive, sage, lime green trees and undergrowth interrupted at times with a cascading waterfall. Fishermen and picnickers dot the banks. The breeze cuts the sticky heat.

The food on the catamaran was scrumptious. Sorry, I just can’t use delicious again but it was. Not only did it taste good but it was beautiful. 

Finally the sun began to set behind the trees and it was time to get back to the hotel and get organized for tomorrow.  

A word from Dennis…

Yeah, the plane ride from Mendoza to Iguassu Falls, Brazil via Rio De Janiero was a doozie! Eighteen hours with a 7 hour layover in Rio. Sound exotic? Ahh, nope. That’s a lot of butt time and the older I get, the less padding I have back there. 

There were a few hiccups when we arrived here but between G-Adventures and Cindy, they worked out and we’re happy. 

As she said, the cruise was very relaxing and perfect following a long day of travel.

And on we go…🙂