A Glorious Day

What a glorious day--we did not spend hours looking for a length of rope for hanging our laundry (which we did do the day before yesterday). We found a bungee cord that was rejected by Mr. Schulz. He wants a rope! He found one tonight in the street and a passer-by told him he might find rope in the next street over. Mind you, they do not share a common language.

Clothesline Possibilities

We went to the beach today!

We were out of the apartment by 9:00 AM and walked down Tran Phu for about 1 and 1/2 miles to a --are you ready?-- Mexican Restaurant! I had a chicken enchilada which was delicious. Dennis had a chicken burrito which was not. Nevertheless the restaurant had a lovely staff and beautifully clean bathrooms.

We took a taxi, a real taxi to the Imperial Hotel where you can rent chairs with large gorgeous towels for $10.00 per person and order beers! Wonderful!

Take what you need...

At the beach I was a star. Several ladies wanted to have their pictures taken with me. Why you ask? Beats me--the white hair (which seems to be unusual here), a chubby lady, a great cover up from Bloomington Clothing Company?

A star...What?!

Dennis swam in the South China Sea so he can cross that off his bucket list. I went into the pool.

South China Sea

Emerging from the sea

The pool

The end of the day found us at David's Italian Restaurante having caprese salad and pizza. Yum!! We met the owner who is from Florence. Lovely man, lovely staff, lovely food!!

Yum! Homemade sausage

Limoncello

Back "on-line"

Ok...I'm back online. I think after sleeping about 12 hours yesterday (5 - 10 PM & then 12:00 - 6:30 AM) I'm in sync with local time and off US time. Yeah!! Felt like I was in a fog there for awhile. Well, we've learned a few more valuable lessons today. Let me share (like we could stop him. cm): We had a few cups of coffee this morning from the lady who lives two floors up and sells coffee as a sideline. I walk up to floor 12 (we're on 10), order my coffee and she delivers it to our apartment 15 minutes later. It's good but looks like chocolate milk. It's made with sweetened condensed milk and coffee that's 250 octane! With the sugar and caffeine, I'm wired and ready to run a marathon, well to walk down the street and pick up a jug of water, anyway.

Lesson One:
A maximum of one cup of this high grade coffee in the morn--two cups? Verboten! On to the second adventure: after the coffee rush and shower, it's about noon and time for lunch.

We walk up the road about a 1/2 mile and there is a restaurant on the ocean that advertises seafood. Got to be good, right? It's on the South China Sea by god! Well maybe not by god. Vietnam is a communist country (he says with a non-religious wink). Well, it was not good, it was fantastic! Shrimp sautéed in garlic with pumpkin flowers, seafood spring rolls that would cause Anthony Bourdain to admit defeat.

Cay Bang Restaurant

But here's the kicker. No wine by the glass, only by the bottle. What a dilemma. After Cindy and I consulted for 7 seconds, we decided on a bottle.
Lesson Two:
After having 250 ocatane sweetened coffee for breakfast DO NOT have a bottle of wine (that you buy based on the cheapest price) with lunch. After lunch we dragged our sorry asses back the 1/2 mile to our apartment and called it a day (at 2:00 PM).

No way is that the finger, not in her sleep...

Will have to content ourselves with wine by the glass only for lunch...oh yeah on a side note, I gave the waitress our credit card for the bill. She nor anyone else in the restaurant spoke English but they did take credit cards. Two minutes later, she came back with my card and gave me her cell phone. I laughed and gave it back to her. She smiled and stuck it in my ear. I thought, "who would call me in Vietnam? I don't know anyone here." I'm quick on the uptake, right? Well, it was the cashier who did speak English. She was very pleasant and just wanted me to know that there was an additional 2 % charge for using a credit card. End result? The $30.00 lunch was going to cost me another $1.60. "Is that okay, sir?"
"Thank you, yes. That's fine. Thank you."

I don't get it. I travel. I'm sophisticated. After all I'm from Indiana.

More adventures to come. Stay with us~

Everyday People

Giving Dennis a break, Cindy writes (don't moan and groan it won't have as much humor but he does agree):
Ho Chi Minh City and Vung Tau--
Encounters with everyday people:

The XO Tour staff are fantastic young people who shared their lives and perspectives with us. Housing is very expensive so many generations live together and privacy is limited. Along the Saigon River there is a section that has lounge chairs, umbrellas, and much foliage where young people can go to have some privacy, not as we were assured, for very intimate acts, but for everyday things like, "give me a big kiss," (you know a little necking but without the benefit of the back seat of a car) "your mother is driving me crazy," etc. With an average monthly income of between $130.00 - $250.00 and housing costs high, it's difficult to move out. We saw many upscale housing high rise apartments with darkened windows because inflation is so high (23%) the wealthy invest in property but the property remains vacant.

XO Tour Staff cooking for us

A man selling cold coconut milk, helping us to find the War Remnants Museum: He walked us across the street, let Dennis hold his load so that he could see how heavy it was, took us to the corner and showed us the museum. We bought two drinks.

Delicious!

A man in Vung Tau who bought us a couple of beers: retired from Toronto, Canada returning home once or twice a year. He understood immediately that Dennis had been here before as a soldier and wanted us to enjoy Vietnam. Amazing.

A man who worked for the embassy of Australia in the early 70's returning as we are--met he and his wife on a tour for returning vets, though these were primarily from Australia. We visited a pagoda that was a memorial to Vietnamese veterans who fought in the area. We also spent a bit of time at a memorial for the Australians who fought in this area. Glen, our tour guide had many stories from the veterans of Australia who have come back to the area to remember fallen comrades. And he has his own story--he met his wife here, they married, they have a business and in addition to sharing the story of Australia's involvement with the USA in Vietnam, he shared a bit of the story of the expats from Australia.

A memorial to the fallen Vietnamese

A memorial to the fallen Australians

The grocery store owner who saved the grapes that we bought but didn't take with us yesterday--he tried to catch us but we got into the taxi too quickly. When we went back today for more groceries, he had them for us.

At our favorite grocery store

Laura's Cafe: we ordered gin and tonics. The young lady brought us two iced teas. Dennis went to investigate, not like a Terry Bradshaw clone but politely. The teas were complimentary to drink while we waited for the gin and tonics to be made and brought to us. How incredible is that?

This is what makes our traveling so compelling, this is why we love it: getting to know the world through the people. What wonderful opportunities we've had and how fortunate we are. We are so grateful.

Dennis' Disclaimer

Disclaimer Alert-- I did not write nor will I accept responsibility for the comment regarding Cindy, a motorbike and a crane on the previous post. I write my comments and then Cindy types, adds hers and them to our blog. That comment was added by her. Please do not send disparaging remarks, daggers, or death threats to me. I have since discussed this with her and the serious consequences of "alternative facts." I remain (as always)--Mr. Wonderful
PS from Cindy: It's difficult to type when laughing!

Delightful Vung Tau

From our balcony in Vung Tung

Reflections on the Past and Present

It's 3:30 AM, Saturday, February 11th. I'm sitting in the lobby of the Spring Hotel in Saigon (Friday afternoon in Bloomington, IN). I awoke a few minutes ago, thinking about our day yesterday and wanted to share some thoughts with you. Cindy's sleeping and I didn't want to wake her which is why I'm in the lobby. The night clerk's sleeping on the floor some ten feet away and the doorman is probably wondering why that "nut" is sitting in reception, looking around, writing and not in bed. They're both dressed formally in white shirts and ties and always accommodating. Great guys.

I'll move on to keep this somewhat short and readable to hopefully hold your interest. Yesterday was spent walking the city--taking in all the wonderful sights and smells and watching, listening , and talking to everyday Vietnamese about how they spend their lives. We watched moms and dads drop their kids off at school across the street from the hotel. Many times there were four on a motorbike with the kids sandwiched between the parents, eager for school and laughing. They're "just like" the kids and parents in many other parts of the world. It was wonderful to watch.

After lunch we visited the War Remnant Museum. It was crowded with people from many different cultures. There was so much to see, hear, and read. In two hours we could only cover one floor of the three story structure. I think it should be viewed that way, in pieces. Photographers from throughout the world, showed in graphic details (with written commentary in Vietnamese and English) what happened on the battlefields and in the villages; how lives were lost and changed forever. It was tough to see. We'll be back in Saigon in about ten days. We're planning to return to the museum and view the remainder of the floors. I'll share more thoughts at that time.

Around five in the afternoon we were out in front of the hotel waiting to be picked for our "foodie" tour of Ho Chi Minh City. We were to experience Vietnamese food and culture the way people who live here do. I could write pages about this adventure but to keep it short, just a few highlights. We paid to have a video made so you can come over and see it sometime. Two beautiful young ladies weighing at most 100 pounds showed up on motorbikes and off we went. Cindy behind one driver and me behind the other. We became one of millions of motorbikes flying along the streets, inches apart, careening in and out of traffic, holding on and trying to keep our asses on the bikes. It was no less exciting than skydiving. We met ten other people, each on the backs of ten other bikes and literally flew through the streets and sidewalks of Saigon. We ate and drank all kinds of traditional (and non) foods in six different parts of the city: soups, stews, fish, fowl, beef, goat, frog (with and without skins) and the ever famous duck eggs boiled with the embryos just prior to hatching still in the egg. Neither Cindy nor I had the willpower (read guts) to try that.

After five hours of nonstop eating, drinking,* laughing, talking, and screaming through the streets we were dropped off back at our hotel. The girls and guide were great (all spoke English) and could not have been nicer, better, more entertaining, or knowledgeable about their city. We can't wait to see the video and share it with you. Cindy's hoping that the crane used to get her on and off the bike won't be visible.

Tomorrow it's south to Vung Tau on the South China Sea. This is where I enetered Vietnam in 1966 and where I later went for in country R & R. We'll be here for ten days, then back to Saigon and north to Hanoi. Stay with us, great to have you along.

*Beleive it or not, Cindy and I drank water to be sure we didn't fall off.

PS from Cindy~the contrast between present day Vietnam and the past is startling. The stark photographs at the museum contrasted with the "foodie" tour are difficult to reconcile. This is a country that has endured so much and is so much older than our own. Dennis and I were in two very different places in 1966-1967 both mentally and physically. That museum is in our heads and that past will continue to haunt this trip but the present will continue to amaze us.

Welcome to Ho Chi Minh City

I had a brief moment of panic at the airport. Cindy had arranged for us to be picked up and taken to the hotel. The driver was there to greet us with our names on a sign. When he saw us looking at all the others with signs among the thousands he pointed to our names, Cindy replied, "Si, si."

First addition to our blog as newly arrived in Vietnam. Weather? Beautiful, sunny and 90 degrees during the day--clear, 75 degrees and moonlit at night. Little rain in February and March with lower humidity. Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) is very busy with 10 million people but clean with flowers of every shape and color everywhere, in pots and in the ground.

Every family has a motorbike and whether it's a family of two or five, they're all on that bike with the kids sandwiched in between the adults. Cars are plentiful and new (we haven't seen any old ones) but they're outnumbered by about 40 to 1 (my estimate).

The people are warm and friendly, willing to help strangers. Like people in all parts of the world, they're trying to feed themselves and thier families. Of the thousands of people we've seen today, not one asked for a handout.

A room can be had at a nice hotel for $50.00 or less per night and a good meal with a glass of wine or two beers for between $5.00 - $10.00. I like it here.

After breakfast this morning, we'll be heading to the War Remnants Museum, about a twenty minute walk form our hotel (Cindy's anxious to use her "Fitbit"). We've read about it and not sure how I'll feel. From the hotel brochure and The Lonely Planet Vietnam Guide there are many pictures and accounts in graphic detail of how women and chelidren suffered through the approximate eight years we Americans were involved (1965-1973). Will share my thoughts after experiencing it.

Thanks for joining us on our latest adventure. Thanks also to Cindy (our videographer) who always has her camera and/or cellphone at the ready to document and share the experience with you. In all honesty it's mostly for me so when she says, " remember when?" And I say "no"...she can prove it!

Later...

Armchair Travel Reviews

Note: we love real books, hard cover or paperback but in order to stick to our "diet" we put our books on our tablets.

Dennis reviews~
Am in the process of reading the book PATRIOTS: the Vietnam War Remembered From All Sides before we leave for Southeast Asia and Vietnam. It's written by Christian Appy and is an eye opening read. Appy interviewed 135 people who were personally involved, Americans and Vietnamese; generals to grunts, policy makers to protesters, and everyone in between.

It gives a perspective I have not read or heard before and opened my eyes to how this devastating conflict changed so many lives. I hope to gain further insight by revisiting my 1966 - 1967 experience by seeing, meeting and talking with others (Vietnamese and American) who were there and those who came later. I'll share those insights and adventures as they occur in future posts. Allons...

A PS from Cindy~

PATRIOTS is a book I will not read because Dennis has told me that it is very graphic and often brutal. He does however often share with me the parts that he thinks I would find interesting. On page 139 is one such interview. Appy interviews Quach Van Phong who was an artist with the North Vietnamese Army. Supplies were scarce and water was needed for drinking. Quach Van Phong used his spit mixed with dirt in order to create artwork. This artist now lives on the outskirts of Ho Chi Minh City. How amazing would it be to get to see some of his art?!

Cindy reviews~
A NAIL THROUGH THE HEART by Timothy Hallinan is the first book in the Poke Rafferty mysteries. Bangkok provides a colorful and exotic setting for this series. Rafferty is a travel writer who manages to get involved in complicated mysteries. His friend Arthit, a Bangkok police officer is frequently needed to rescue him from near disasters. Rose, a beautiful ex-prostitute and Miaow, a child from the streets form his family. The book successfully weaves the mystery into the family storyline.

Hallinan writes with humor and empathy for Thailand where he has lived on and off for more than twenty years.

John Burdett, in his mystery series set in Bangkok, also uses humor but offers a much different perspective. In BANGKOK 8 (the first book in the series) we are introduced to Sonchai Jitpleecheep, a Buddhist Royal Thai police officer and his soul brother and fellow officer Pichai. The story is told to the reader by Sonchai and his humor and knowledge give us another perspective of Thailand. According to Sonchai, "Krung Thep means City of Angels, but we are happy to call it Bangkok if it helps to separate a farang from his money." So here we go with our eyes wide open hoping not to prove the old saying true: "a fool and his money are soon parted." Though we are planning to part with it. ;-)