Here We Go Again!

Several friends and a few in our families have asked us, “Where are you going this year?” And then when we answer, the next question is why? We are going to be visiting 5 countries in the southern tip of Africa: Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Eswatini and South Africa. I have loved the people, the places, everything about every country we have visited. I always say, “We must come back. We didn’t see…” Dennis says, “No, we need to visit new places.” So this year we are indeed, visiting new places that we have never been.

We had the good fortune to meet Matt Perry and his partner, Ian at the wedding of Deanne and Scott. Their descriptions of this part of the world, intrigued us. And with much advice from Matt, I set about finding out how we could actually travel here. As we have stated many times, our budget is based on what it would cost us to stay in Florida or Arizona for a month or more. 

Sticking to this in Africa is a bit tricky because when you start, it is always assumed that you want to go on a safari. If you have never gone on a safari, it is definitely a must at least once in your life. You will, in the end want your children and grandchildren to experience it. Buy lottery tickets now because it is expensive. As we had gone with Thompson Safaris in 1999 to Tanzania we wanted a different experience. That is what we are about to have. We are both, for the first time, a bit anxious about a trip. We have no idea of what to expect.     

Our route (blue arrows) from Windhoek to Capetown

We had help from three sources: Matt who lived and worked there, Debbie Isom of Travel Leaders, our ever patient travel agent, and Natalee of Elsewhere part of the travel service from Lonely Planet. The first half of the trip was in the hands of Debbie from flights to Windhoek and back to Chicago, airport transport, booking a G-Adventure, hotels and internal flights. Eswatini was based on recommendations from Matt. For South Africa our resource was Natalee. And on January 2, we will be off!

And now a word from the intrepid adventurer, Dennis:

It's begun already! She's making me write again and soon I'll hear (like an echo in a canyon), "Dennis, write a few lines about what we saw today. Dennis have you written something for the blog yet? Dennis where's your notes on what you wrote for the blog? Etc., Etc., Etc.," And we haven't even left yet. 😒

To be honest, I am a little anxious about this trip. Not because of fear or danger (the State Department says where we're going is as safe as most of Europe) but I really don't know what to expect. Well, with Cindy's prodding, stay tuned. You'll be getting my point of view as to what transpires. Wish I knew how to say Ciao in Oshiwambo, that's the most common language in Namibia. Impressed yet? 😁

Travel Janes are NOT needed in Japan!

 We arrived in the land of the best toilets in the world. Yes other countries have nice toilets, many have bidets, but none are of the quality found in Japan. You will find them in your hotel, at the McDonald's, in the subway. The toilet seat is heated, the remote is on the wall so that you can regulate where the warm will hit and with how much force. The toilet in our hotel automatically flushed. I have no idea how it knew when was it appropriate but it was accurate each and every time. Dennis is particularly enamored of them and is busy researching what will be the best one for us. 

So what did we do in Tokyo besides hang around bathrooms? The first night we left our hotel to find a restaurant. And we found one just down the street which was great as we didn't have to go far in the rain. It was a bit like the Midnight Diner on Netflix--small, great staff, a friendly place. We learned after many trials that you don't go into a restaurant to be seated or to be told how the long the wait will be. You open the door and ask if you can come in. When they have reservations for the evening, it's for the whole evening. If a party leaves and then they have space, you may be allowed to come in if they are still taking orders. It wasn't until our last night that we finally understood this. But our first night at Yakitori Tasuku was memorable. We stopped inside this small diner when we were invited in. We didn’t know what to expect but what we got was awesome food and a delightful experience. The staff are friendly and the food is delicious. We tried a variety of grilled skewers, meat and veggie as well is a dish of large in the shell sweet peas (maybe soy beans) served hot with mayonnaise. At the end of the meal we shared a Kirin whiskey which we both found very tasty. If you’ve wished to be in a place like Cheers, this is the place!

The next morning we woke early and left the hotel to meet at the Coffee Turret to go for breakfast at the Fish Market. Haruka was our guide and she started us off with a perfect latte--strong and hot. From there we walked to the nearby fish market where we were to start  our breakfast and explore the market. We had breakfast at a market restaurant that consisted of three types of fish each prepared with a different sauce, sticky rice, miso soup and tea. Very nourishing but very different from our western first meal of the day.

From there we went farther into the market and stopped to have a Japanese omelet. The line was long but it was worth the wait and we had a chance to watch the cooks expertly make the products.

We also went to the commercial fish market where Haruka picked up several more items for us to taste: fresh salmon (medium fat), grilled eel, another chewy white fish (can't remember the name) and the most delicious strawberries, in the world. You will see that I mention the best, the most, the finest, when referring to items in Japan. This is because they focus on perfecting things. It might be a toilet or a strawberry or organic chickens that you can eat raw. It is all done to perfection and with great care and balance.

The next day we were to go on a cocktail tour so before we tried to find where we were to meet we thought we should do a run-through. We had directions from Arigato the tour company, the hotel and Google. None of them got us to where we needed to meet. We were walking in the opposite direction of where we needed to go. Thankfully a kind woman stopped and gave us perfect directions. Retracing our steps, we found our meeting place. Later that day we met Josh our guide and Victoria and Derek, a delightful young couple who were on vacation in Japan.

Josh took us into the Ginza neighborhood where we started with a tasting of sake. After that a moment of prayer at a small shrine in an alley and then tea and then on to a mixology experience at Salon. A very exclusive place where the making of cocktails is an art form. The décor is sophisticated and every detail has been carefully planned. 

After Salon we went to another mixology offering at a bar that was designed as a farmhouse. The outside is blackened wood, very dramatic. The inside is very warm and cozy. At all of these places we were given small but very tasty small bites--duck, cheeses, beef tenderloin, dates with butter, persimmons, and more.

We had a day on our own to explore our neighborhood and also walk back to Ginza. finally I knew where we were. I could even show Dennis from the 17th floor lobby of our hotel the Blossom Hibiya.

Our final day was spent in Sagumo the neighborhood of old people. We started at a shrine and I participated in lighting incense and wafting it on to myself. The shrines and temples are beautiful and have meaning for so many people. At a nearby dessert shop we sampled two sweets. The most memorable for me consisted of two small pancakes with a slab of butter sandwiched between them. Yep butter and it was delicious. Remember I said they focus on perfection and balance.

As we walked on we stopped in several shops and then arrived at the restaurant where we would have lunch. It was one that specialized in noodle soups. Dennis had one with meat, I had one that was basically all noodles. Both were delicious. Norma was our guide in Sugamo and she ordered a potato starter for us. I do like potatoes but I do not care for most kinds of aspic or jellied foods. The potato had been ground into flour and then processed so that it's consistency was similar to what happens to Jello when you leave it in the refrigerator for weeks. I could manage a bite but not more than that. 

From here we went to a temple, following the sounds of the drumming. A service was taking place with three monks--one on the drum, one on cymbals/gong and the lead monk leading the chanting. The acoustics in the temple were so good that it sounded like an orchestra and a choir. After we listened for a while we went outside and I participated in a healing ceremony for my back. After washing the statue where you have pain, you wring out the cloth and put it in a plastic bag to keep with you. And yes, I have mine with me. 

Finally we visited several other places and then the red underwear shop where I bought some. They promote good luck and longevity. Don't talk to me about genetics, just give me red underwear. I think I was quite lucky to get them supersized!

We took the train back to our hotel station. It was a quick and easy ride and we were quite happy that we did not leave Tokyo without going on the train. And yes, I used the bathroom in the station which was as wonderful as I have described in the beginning of this post.

Our last meal was in a large restaurant full of happy young Japanese celebrating the end of the work week. Dennis had a bit of a surprise as the appetizer was a raw chicken heart. We met a lovely young couple from the Philippines who told us all about why we should travel there, not Manila but they gave us several other suggestions. So who knows what's next.

And now a word from Dennis--

As usual, Cindy's done a hell of a job describing our traveling antics, this time regarding Japan. As I write, I too remember the bidets, I've already begun my search for the one that will be installed in our guest bathroom. My "tush" will undoubtedly be forever thankful and clean. When you come to visit, you will also be able to take advantage of this technological wonder and save us money on toilet paper as well...😉Now on to my story which I've already cleared with Cindy.

She refers to herself as clumsy. I would classify her more as careless. She talks with her hands a lot and does this while eating, napkins, silverware and occasionally glasses leave the table. For example: we were at a small diner one evening in Tokyo and had just ordered a glass of wine. Low and behold, our waiter had just poured the wine from the box (yep, the Bota box) and Cindy started questioning him about items on the menu. She swung the menu around while pointing to the pictures on the pages and before you could say, "Holy Schmidt." the wine glass was parallel to the table and the wine was on the table and the floor. Accidents happen, right? They just seem to happen to Cindy an inordinate amount of time. 

We've all seen séances with people sitting around a table and all of a sudden something is levitating. That's just like dining with Cindy except gravity takes over and the levitation process discontinues. Why am I telling you this? Here's why. Next up is a cocktail tour at some really fancy-schmancy drinking establishments.

You saw pictures of them above on the blog. The drinks were expensive, but included in the price of the tour. Here's the rub on the menu it stated, "Glasses are fragile and expensive so please handle them with care. If you break the glass, please pay for it in any case." So the drinks are crafted and served for your pleasure in expensive, finely made glasses. Should you break one, it will be added to your bill. 

Oh No!! I looked at Cindy and considered tying her hands down to the barstool with a scarf and asking for a straw. But I knew that wouldn't fly--nope. Can you picture that? 🤔 

In my defense, on a trip to Amsterdam, we were sitting next to a canal at a table having cocktails. There were other tables near us doing the same thing. Cindy got up to go to the ladies room and after taking a step she got her right shoe caught in her left pant leg. On her way down she stretched out her arms for support on the adjacent tables. Well, it was another séance but gravity works in Amsterdam only this time not only did knives, forks, napkins, and drinks go flying, so did the tables. After apologizing and offering to replace the drinks for everyone within a 30 yard radius, we said we were Russian tourists on vacation and quickly slipped away. Such are the travails of traveling with Cindy. Careless she may be but a new adventure is right around the corner.

That's it for this trip. Thanks for joining us until next time.

Afterword:

For The Traveler 

Every time you leave home,

Another road takes you

into a world we're never in.

...that you may not waste the invitations

which wait along the way to transform you.

...live your life to the fullest,

Return home more enriched and free

to balance the gift of days which call you.

                               ~John O'Donoghue         

There are some people who will stay with you even when you are once again at home. In Hua HIn there was Jhonny from Scotland who seemed to enjoy the company of two old people and shared who he is with us. In Vientiane we met Chomsay who spent a day with us showing us the beauty of his city. He shared a part of himself with us and we were given a glimpse of his perseverance. In Vang Vieng our hot air balloon pilot who took his time explaining so much to us and who seemed to really enjoy talking to Dennis. 

In Luang Prabang we met Somsay who gave us our most cherished day at a Hmong village and school. And the children, we cannot forget the children who are so precious. We discussed what opportunities the children might have. After 5th grade they will need to go to a larger village to continue school. Is it important to be able to see what's outside your village? If you're happy, isn't that enough? The dilemma of education is losing culture and language versus keeping a traditional life. Perhaps for those who have a yearning soul, education fans that discontent. And for those who can find happiness and contentment with the familiar, education can be an enrichment to life. I am not wise enough to know the answer but it does trouble me.

"Every time you leave home

another road takes you

into a world we're never in."

               ~John O'Donoghue  

    

Vientiane: Capital of Laos

“Every time you leave home,

Another road takes you

Into a world we’re never in.

New strangers on other paths await.” ~ John O’ Donahue 

Walking around Vientiane last night we encountered a quiet city. A group posed for a formal photograph. We thought at first they might be a group of young graduating police cadets. As we drew closer we realized they were a group of newly hired and trained Hard Rock Cafe employees, standing of course, on the steps of the newly opened Hard Rock Cafe.

We walked back towards our hotel and then took a detour through the park. At Vialy’s Steak House we stopped for appetizers. As we sat talking about our first impression of Laos we were served food that was all freshly made. After Hua Hin and Bangkok, Vientiane is so peaceful and quiet. The staff of the places we have stopped—the hotel, a bar, the restaurant are so helpful even though English is in short supply. This seems a more innocent city and perhaps one that is more willing to please than others we have visited. We find the slower pace, without the hustle of Thailand, welcome. That said, the traffics is still incredible. Crossing the street even at a crosswalk is an adventure.

On Thursday we began to explore the city. When we left the hotel we turned left this time. We came to the Presidential Palace and a wide boulevard. We soon decided to leave this street which was home to many governmental offices and international banks.

On the side street we came to a wine shop. Yes, can you believe it? A wine shop? Baravin Savor’s Club. Inside we found the staff having lunch so we browsed the wide selection of wine and liquors. There were few whites but a huge selection of reds—most if not all, from France. And so France, once ousted from Laos is still here.

Mr. Ken the store manager came to help us. He spoke English beautifully with a lovely French accent. He confessed to studying in both France and England. After purchasing a bottle of a French red blend and a small bottle of Johnnie Walker Black Label he made some recommendations. One was to have a glass of wine at 7th Heaven, the rooftop bar at La Seine Hotel.

Later that day our Sunset Food Tour guide didn’t show up which is a whole different story. In conciliation we went to the 7th Heaven bar to whine about our disappointment. But how can you whine when watching the sunset over the Mekong? So we didn’t. We enjoyed our wine, our appetizers, the attentive wait staff and the glorious sunset.

And Dennis says—

It’s Saturday morning, 8 AM and Cindy’s already on my butt about writing something for the blog. I feel like a third grader with the teacher prodding me to do my homework. Sheesh!! I look out the window and realize we’re probably in the safest place in town (not that it’s at all dangerous). Our hotel is right net door to the police station. Up the road are embassies from other countries around the world as well as the presidential palace of Laos. Yep, pretty safe here.

Presidential Palace

Looking out the window, I also see hundreds of electrical wire on poles extending for miles in all directions. I wonder if one goes out, how the heck do they trace it down and untangle the bundles. We’ve seen the same in other countries of SE Asia, especially Vietnam. 😱

One quick story about my traveling partner. Last night we took a tuk-tuk to a nice rooftop restaurant (see photos). The driver wanted 50,000 Kip ($3.00) to take us there. After a few drinks and dinner, we hailed another to take us back to our hotel. I asked, “How much?” He said, “70,000 Kip ($4.00).” I said, “No, 50,000 Kip” and we began to negotiate. Cindy steps in (without a welcome I might add) and tells me I gave the first driver 70,000 Kip. I tell her I know what I paid and it was 50,000. Now, I’m arguing with her and the driver. I gave up! I gave him 70,000 Kip with the caveat to her, “I’m trying to save us money as well.”

You’re probably thinking, “C’mon, it’s only a buck.” But it’s the principle that counts, right? It didn’t come down to pushing and shoving, wrestling on the ground between her and I but, I was right, right? You gotta stand up for what’s right. Which one of us gets an “atta boy/girl”? Sometimes being together 24/7 ain’t easy…😄   

This one gets a rebuttal from Cindy—

I am so sorry that I told him it was okay to make fun of me. He has responded much too enthusiastically. Next he’ll be telling you how I fell down in the airport in Bangkok trying to help him put on his backpack. Sheesh.