So Many Reasons to Love Mexico

10/28

With the two of us, there is always a chance for adventure.  I have been locked in two bathrooms, one in our casita and one in a restaurant.  I also have fallen once while trying to go from the street up onto a high sidewalk.  Grace is not my name, not even my middle name.  The poor man who was coming behind us was so kind and worried that I was hurt but Dennis was wishing he had the camera.  According to him it was a slow motion tumble from front with a roll so that I ended up sitting on the edge of the sidewalk.  No harm done, small scrapes to knee, elbow and fingers.

Along the Lake

After a stop in a restaurant we continued to the shore of the lake and later Dennis and JIm went shopping.  Dennis returned with a hat that he LOVES.  He is sure this hat will bring him two things.  First he is sure that with this hat he has become a “chick magnet.”  I am supposed to walk behind and keep all of the women away.  Hmm.  You think that’s going to happen?  Second, he is convinced that the guys he golfs with will be very envious.

 Sauve and deboner (debonaire)...

I’m not taking it off for any reason

Today we’re going to a Thriller performance in the plaza and then on to an art opening (with wine & appetizers, the only way to get the “boys” there).   

     

 Thriller Dancer

 Art Opening

DM—I like it when Cindy writes first so I can defend myself in print.  Regarding her latest post and evoking “snopes.com” I would say her post is “mostly true” but I will still give my interpretation.  With respect to her tumble on the sidewalk, it was more appropriately a barrel roll.  I was walking behind her, saw that the step up to the sidewalk was quite high and thought, “oh-oh.”  Before I could react, she began her roll.  Reminds me of her similar header into traffic in New Orleans a few years ago.  Traffic had to be stopped to help her up and she still disputes my contention that alcohol might have been involved...remember it was New Orleans!  That occurrence resulted in scrapes to the face and scratched glasses which she contends that because they fell off, the glasses caused the fall.  This one was much less notable.  Also many people saw and participated in the NOLA event, what with stopping traffic and assisting in getting her vertical again.  She has always been a source of amusement and entertainment for me.  I mean that in the best possible way.  

Now to my hat—yep, it’s a real beauty and I feel it makes me the envy of most of the caballeros in Ajijic.  I think most people, male and female, notice me when I pass.  The men envy me and the women?  Well, the word that comes to mind is desirous.  All of this thanks to a 65 peso ($3.00) and tax free!  

I love Mexico!!

Thanks for joining us on our journey.  Early Tuesday morning (2:30 AM) we leave for Guadalajara for a 5:00 AM flight, eventually ending up in Bloomington—Cindy, me, and my hat.  Wonder if I’ll receive the same adulation when I wear it on the square?  Hope so...Dennis “the Hat” Schulz

To Shop or Soak, that is the question...

10/25

CM—I can’t believe we are more than half way through our visit to Mexico.  This is such a beautiful colorful country.  You can’t go for a walk without being immersed in color—red, gold, orange, yellow, rose, purple, lavender, blue and greens.  It is in the flowers but also in the walls of the houses and stores, the weaving of table cloths, runners, napkins, the weaving of rugs, beaded jewelry and artifacts, everywhere you look—color! 

Karen and I spent yesterday shopping in Ajijic.  We went into galleries of local artists, shops where women designed and made clothing, a shop where men and women wove table cloths, runners, placemats, and napkins.  We discovered a gallery opening for this weekend of a painter and photographer, (the “boys” will love it—wine and food).  I found a few items that I think Brooks and Giana will enjoy, each shop held some delightful item.  The Katrinas at Diana Pearl’s are wonderful, a tall blue Katrina carrying crates of birds, one of terra cotta with a twirling skirt with roses sculpted and painted.  If only I had an airplane just so that I could pack it full.

Dennis and Jim were going to spend the day at a a natural spa with pools of naturally heated water. I said good bye to them with only a few words of advice—going to the spa be sure you take a shower before you get in the pool, don’t get your backpacks wet. They waved adios and left for the bus.  

We are ready to get healthy!

DM—Yesterday Jim and I tool a short trip up the road to a health spa on Lake Chapala.  Who couldn’t use a little more health in their lives, right?  The girls passed on this opportunity for more shopping.  We got on a local bus (10 pesos/50 cents) and in 15 minutes we were there.  It’s in the small town of San Juan Cosala. We paid 400 pesos ($20.00) each to enter and were among 4 other people who were already there.  A number of pools are available for soaking and the waters are volcanically heated to around 200 degrees F so it must be cooled.  After cooling they range from about 100 degrees to about 110 which after two minutes, was too hot for me.  The pools also contain many natural minerals that relieve aches and pains and possibly hangovers.  Massages are also available but Jim had noticed how the women in Ajijic were constantly undressing him with their eyes, so he didn’t want to torture them further.  Good choice, Jim! I too felt it would have been torture for them.

After spending a few hours at the spa it was time to once again add toxicity to our bodies so stops were necessary at a number of cantinas for beer and tequila on our way home.  We thought that we shouldn’t risk being too healthy. More to come—

What? How did they find us???

CM—Today we went to the Wednesday Market and I found a few things, hmmm enough things so that I used up all the pesos I had... Oh boy!  Dennis bought small bananas and a pineapple.  Great breakfast tomorrow.  After breakfast with the Brickners at Salvador’s we got on a bus for Jocotopec.  The bus follows the lake shore around until we reached our destination.  Once off the bus we walked toward the lake hoping to arrive at the Plaza Mayor.  When the road ended we asked a  young man on a motorcycle where it was.  We pretty much had to retrace our steps to the bus station.  We varied it by walking one block over and back up where we came from.  Guess what? We found the Plaza Mayor and the church on the square.  Very beautiful and tranquil.  Tequila and Negro Modelo were needed to quench our thirst after our little jaunt around the town.  Our bartender was very patient with our horrible Spanish and our attempt to get an ice cube (hielo), not helado (ice cream), not frio (cold).  

Walking back we found a liquor store which had not only brandy but cough drops which we had been unable to find in a pharmacy.  Luck is with us!!

Tlaquepaque Research

10/21 5:30 AM

Yesterday we spent shopping in Tlaquepaque which is another beautiful town with an old town full of galleries, shops and restaurants.  Sergio Bustamante has a gallery there and a couple of his sculptures are outside on the pedestrian mall.  Bustamante was born in 1942 and his work began with papier-mâché and painting.  He then began to work in ceramic and metal sculpture and now is also designing furniture.   

Also found in Tlaquepaque is the gallery of one of my favorite ceramic artists, Rodo Padilla.  Many years ago, I visited Elana when she was teaching in Mexico and she took me to Tlaquepaque.  I fell in love with a sculpture of Padilla’s—a young boy and girl on a metal teeter totter which actually goes up and down. It so reminded me of Elana and Nick that I had to have it.  Guess what? I fell in love again, this time with the moon and it will be going home with us.      

Returning home later in the afternoon, I did a little painting at the patio table.  I’m trying the techniques I learned in Joan Fullerton’s class.  Learned is a bit of a strong word that suggests mastery.  Not so I’m afraid, but practicing and trying those techniques. As I was playing with the paint, I overheard the conversation going on between Dennis and Jim about their desirability to women.  Jim was retelling his experience meeting two women in the street (from his point of view).  I should have stayed quiet as I’m sure it would have gotten more interesting.  Instead I found myself interrupting.  “Stop.  I’m going to throw up!” Joan was right.  When painting play music, preferably fast to keep the paint flowing and in this case, loud to keep my ears from wandering.

Why am I up and drinking coffee and writing, you might wonder.  There is a charming little custom in Ajijic.  A canon is shot off at about 5:30 AM followed by a series of church bells.  The bells peal out about 20 times, there is space of ten minutes and the process is repeated every ten minutes until 6:00 AM.  I have actually slept through this but not this AM.  Now outside the compound the roosters are stirring and urging the sun up.  This is accompanied by a lively serenade.  There is either a band outside or someone has their radio on as a welcome to the day for the entire neighborhood, complete with drum solo. I just stepped onto the patio and looked up.  The stars are brilliant in a deep navy sky.  It’s going to be another beautiful day in Mexico and as the saying goes down here, “Relax, you’re on the fun side of the wall.”

Señor Schulz—

Just read Cindy’s description of our shopping experience in Tlaquepaque yesterday and would like to add my perspective.  In all fairness, I think I should have written first so she could punch holes in my theories/opinions.  Here goes—

While Cindy and Karen visited the many galleries and Cindy “fell in love again” with the vast assortment of treasures, Jim and I visited galleries of another sort.  We still had research to do.  We started our 11:00 AM journey with a visit to the gallery of the famed Mexican artist Jose Cuervo.  The color, aroma, and taste of his works of art were exemplary.  We could have easily enjoyed his art all day but we wanted to visit a few more galleries.  Next came Don Julio.  Just like Jose, Don’s art work was equally alluring.  Hmm, Jim and I questioned each other on which we felt produced the most favorable artwork but finally agreed we’d have to spend more time here to be able to make a truly informed decision.  Next on our gallery walk was the gallery of an artist know only by one name, Patron (a bit like Cher, Sting, or Prince).  Like Jose and Don, Patron was exquisite.  After enjoying his artwork we felt it time for a nap on a park bench but the ladies did not agree so we had lunch at a local restaurant and then slept during the 45 minute cab ride back to our casita in Ajijic.  

As to Cindy’s overhearing our discussion regarding our “desirability to women,” I noted another oddity, again possibly due to our proximity to the equator.  It appears to me that the more we availed ourselves of the local “artwork” the more we seemed to be desirable.  They seemed to really be taking an interest in us although discreetly veiled, we thought.  We think Cindy’s right, gallery walks can be fun.  After a good night’s sleep, we’ll be ready for another walk tomorrow!

Dennis’s Take Today!

I must admit, Cindy’s comments on the blog are right on. Right on regarding Jim and my doing research here in Ajijic. You would think with it being a relatively small town of approximately 10,000 people, everything would be close by. Well, as it turns out distance is much more deceptive in Mexico than it is in Bloomington or for that matter, the whole USA in general. I’ve concluded that it must be because we’re much closer to the equator here.

Let me give you an example: while hiking through town yesterday to study Aztec architecture more closely, Jim and I happened upon a building that contained four rectangular felt covered tables. We were puzzled. What could they be? Some sort of sacrificial Aztec Altar? Oddly, there were some ancient sticks and what appeared to be balls of ivory with hieroglyphics painted on them. One was black with what looked like an 8. We were told by the inhabitants that we should to gather the balls together and then try to knock one into a pocket (six actually) located around the sides of the table. We thought, why not experience the local custom? They also suggested we try drinking a local “herb” while doing this to better experience the game. So we did. Here’s one of the oddities — the more “herbs” that we drank, the longer the table got and the more difficult it became to knock a ball into a pocket. Hmmm, how odd. The second oddity happened after consuming quite a bit of “herb.” The trip back became much longer and more confusing. “Didn’t we pass this corner about ten minutes ago?” I inquired of Jim. After struggling to orient ourselves we were finally able to locate our abode. Needless to say, a nap was necessary after all this research. Tomorrow we plan to try the same experiment to see if it repeats itself, all in the pursuit of science. It’s a sacrifice but one we are committed to endure. The “girls” (Karen & Cindy) are not as dedicated as we. Go figure.

Ajijic!

We entered the large open Customs and Immigration area and began peeling off sweaters and jackets. We had each completed one page on the plane but were given another, one more per household for completion. As I entered the line, a young lady asked me for the form but I explained I hadn’t completed it because it was only in Spanish and I didn’t want to make a mistake. She replied that she would help and she cheerfully did. When completed she left me with, “Have nice time while you’re here.” Do you think maybe we could use these agents to train ours?

As soon as Julio dropped us at the house Jim and Dennis went off to buy coffee at Jim’s favorite place. It must not have been too close by though as they were gone for quite awhile. The coffee when they returned smelled delicious! Next they went out for groceries and the grocery store was also very far away. They bought so much they had to stop along the way to rest!

This morning we went to the Wednesday market. Beautiful fruits, vegetables, beadwork, silver and gemstone jewelry, handmade soap, etc., etc. etc. yes, I spent a little money on three pair of earrings and a bracelet—less than $30.00. The beadwork on the earrings and bracelet are amazing. We could watch him make it. I can’t believe he doesn’t need glasses. Then we stopped for breakfast and back home.

Jim and Dennis are now out doing some research on taking a trip to Tonala and Tlaquepaque for more beautiful artwork. But both places have bars and plazas. They’re also researching a microbrewery which will probably take quite a bit of time. They are very thorough when they are off doing research. Oh, and I think there was mention of some place named Tom’s. I’m sure that’s another tour company. Speaking to the two departing backs, my last words were to remind them that the streets are paved with rocks and are really hard on the knees. I sure hope they paid attention!

Off to Mexico

Another adventure with two long-time (but young at heart) friends. The last time we shared a house was in 2007 shortly after the four of us retired. We stayed for a month in Lake Chapala and we’re still friends. Now we’re packing and getting ready to share another house, this time in Ajijic, Mexico. We’re going to try to add to our travel blog, “Better Now” though it will depend a lot on how much pool (sticks and balls) the two buddies engage in. This could be a lot of clanking of sticks as they usually find a place where you play for free as long as you buy a drink. Yep, this could be a two entry blog.

At the moment the photo app for the blog is on strike so we don’t have any photos of Dennis packing or Cindy hyperventilaing. More to come...

Fantastic Foodie Tour

Yesterday was a food tour in Shibuya. Lauren (an American who has lived in Japan for 20 years) took us to five different small restaurants in the busiest section of Tokyo--Shibuya. It was like being on Michigan Avenue in Chicago at Christmas times 100. Pictures don't do it justice.

Hachi-ko, loyal and faithful dog

Scramble Intersection

Each restaurant specializes in a specific type of Japanese food and offered a selection, rather like Japanese "tapas." At evenings end, we were stuffed. There were six of us on the tour plus Lauren and Tashi, a soon to be guide. A nice sized group for asking questions. We were a father and son from Singapore, a couple from Bristol, England and us.

Loved that Sushi

Osaka and Hiroshima styles

Kobe Beef--oh yeah!

Squid Balls, for me yum, not so much for Cindy

The tour took about three hours and ended in the basement of Tokyu Department store for dessert. What a crowded store!

Kroger would love this crowd!

Red Bean Pastry

Lauren & Dennis

Afterward we walked around a bit by ourselves, got on the subway and headed back to our hotel for a brandy before bed.

Today we had our own tour, one that included shopping (OMB) and sake. We started with lunch at a small restaurant in Asakusa that seated 16. We both had pork but fixed in two different ways and both were fantastic.

Cheers!

Those chopsticks work too well.

Nearby is one of the most famous temples in Tokyo so we wandered over to take a look. It was very crowded. There was incense burning that you could waft on to yourself to cleanse yourself of sin. We wafted quite a bit of smoke.

On the way to the temple we stopped to...

Sensoji Temple

Waft and Cleanse

Cleanse and Waft

Love those Kimonos

Finally we tried to go to the Sake Bar that Cindy had found that had tastings. This was our second attempt. Nope, still not open. She had it in her head that she wanted to try Tedorigawa Yoshida Sake. She saw a documentary on Netflix-- The Birth of Sake. I was there too but I think my snoring might have drowned out the sound so I missed part of it. Yesterday we bought two woodcut prints at a shop nearby. The owner of Mokuhankan was a Canadian. We were right across the street from his shop so she decided it wouldn't hurt to ask him if he knew where we might try some sake. He was still open and had an assistant so he asked her to stay while he took us to a place that specialized in sake! He walked us down the street and around a corner or two, explained in Japanese to the host what we wanted. Refused to accept a drink or gratuity and went back to his shop. That's the Tokyo we've experienced!

A flight of three

Cheers!

Two flights of Sake later, edamame, Japanese fried chicken, and finally a small pitcher of Tedorigawa and we were set!

Tedorigawa!

Luckily I (Dennis) stayed awake all the way home on the subway!

Tomorrow our final excursion takes us back to Narita International Airport for the flight back to Chicago. It's hard to believe our six week adventure is over. In some respects, it seems a long time ago that we arrived in Saigon. In others, we just left Chicago. Our memories of our experiences and the people we've met will last the rest of our lives and through the pictures that Cindy has taken, we can relive them AGAIN. My love and thanks to her for all her planning and patience. Thanks also to you for sharing our journey.

Sayonara