Vibrant Vientiane

Greetings from Laos! Before I even start with what we’ve been up too I want to make a recommendation. If you are interested in Laos and mysteries and a bit of the supernatural thrown in, start reading Colin Cotterill’s Dr. Siri Paiboun series. Start with the first one, The Coroner’s Lunch. This series will give you some sense of where Laos has been. Cotterill’s main characters are two old post-revolutionaries who view the current state (late 1970’s) with more than a bit of cynicism. Throw in a mad man, an honest police officer, a Down syndrome assistant, a stocky nurse and you’re ready to rock n’ roll. That’s not even the full list of characters you’re going to meet and then wish you could meet them in real life. It was this series that kindled my interest in traveling to Laos. See what reading can do? And it was the enthusiasm of our grandson Dan that got us going. We simply picked the three cities that he visited.

On our Vientiane tour we spent the day learning more about Laos with our guide Chansay. We both thought he was a top notch guide, excellent! He was very patient with all of our questions and he had a sense of humor which makes for a relaxed and fun tour. Believe it or not, Dennis had more questions than I did. So many in fact, that at one point I went to find a toilet which was a ways away. When I returned Dennis was still questioning Chan about how to become a monk. Hmmm, perhaps I need to watch him more closely. Though I don’t think orange is really a good color for him but we’ll come back to this.

Toilet? Just a word… The toilets have been clean with paper. There is usually a choice— Eastern (stand) or Western (sit or hover). Often there is hand sanitizer and always soap and water. As long as I have paper, I’m a happy old coot.

So on to Buddha Park which is outside of the city. It is a park filled with sculptures from both Buddhism and Hinduism. Some of them are very old and some are only from the late fifties. The park was put together mostly from donations and the work of volunteers. The sculptures are surrounded by the most gorgeous flowers. This combination of statuary and riotous colors of the flowers are delightful. 

While Chansay and Dennis climbed into the structure symbolizing the world topped with the tree of life, I wandered the gardens happily snapping photos. As I was doing this a lively, sweet group of children on a field trip came by. When they saw me, it was all hello, hello, wave, wave. Such a charming addition to a splendid day. Can you tell I’ve been using a thesaurus? I can’t keep using the same words—adorable and beautiful over and over. But the kids were charming and it was a splendid day!

Dennis will tell you about climbing up to the tree of life. After the three of us reunited we walked though the gardens to the Mekong River. Here we sat sipping the milk from a coconut in the shade of a large gazebo. We watched farmers planting while their cattle meandered along the river bank finding the tastiest of grasses. After our rest we were on our way back to Vientiane.

Back in the city we stopped for lunch where Dennis and I split a traditional Lao lunch  and a plate of sausages with ginger. I love ginger and it was a generous portion of the fresh root.

After lunch we went to the COPE Museum. Dan, our grandson told us about the museum. He said it made him so sad to discover what had happened here. The COPE tells the story of unexploded cluster bombs dropped by American forces on Laos during the Vietnam war.Two million tons of booms were dropped between 1964 - 1973. COPE provides medical and therapeutic help for the victims of the bombs that were dropped and exploded after they were found on the ground. Many of these were children who wanted to play with the round metal ball they picked up near their home. COPE also tells the story of how these bombs are being discovered and removed by international teams. 

It is an eye opening place where you can make a donation by buying a card illustrated by Colin Cotterill. We made a donation and I also bought a pair of earrings that were crafted from newspaper.

Next came a temple which survived the war for independence from France and then the civil war as well. Here we briefly met some red and orange clad monks. The youngest was the one who wanted his photo taken with Dennis. This aroused Den’s curiosity. What does it take to become a monk? What do they do all day? How can a monk be married, be a monk, join a temple for a time, and then go back to his family? As Chansay was trying to answer all of his questions this was the time when I decided to go exploring for a bathroom. The application to become a monk is all in Lao so I wasn’t too worried. However, it’s really hot standing in one place so off I went.

By the time we saw two more temples and a couple of monuments we were exhausted. The Anusawari monument or Patuxai (victory gate) was built in 1968 with money using American funds meant to build a new airport. You can laugh or cry at that. I prefer laughing. Crying is so messy. Chansay dropped us off with our profound thanks and his thanks for our thanks and a good tip which he richly deserved. Yes, tip. While it’s not expected it is not only appropriate but very appreciated. A spectacular day!

Patuxai (Victory Gate)

A final word from Dennis—

My summary of our day with Chan will be much shorter than Cindy’s. Chan was a great guy and a great guide. I try to remember names but since I’m not in sales any longer, I’m not as good at it as I was. I have to come up with gimmicks to help me remember them. With Chan, I thought I’d just have to remember “Charlie.” Get it? Charlie Chan. I remembered his name all day. And absolutely no disrespect intended for those of you thinking racist. Charlie was Chinese, Chansay is Lao… 😊

Climbing with him in that recreation of the world was fun. There were many very narrow stairways, no handrails and my back pack kept getting me stuck in the tight places so I took it off and tossed it ahead of me up the stairs.

When we got to the top and popped out about 40 feet above the ground my “little buddies’ tried to return to where they started in my body, many years before. The slope on top was relatively steep with only a 1 foot high rail with no footholds, should you start to slide. Chan was not happy when I crawled to look over the rail. He said he’d never had a customer die on one of his tours and he didn’t want me to be the first. “It’s not good for business or for tips. Please get back from there!”

Thereafter, me and my buddies dutifully climbed down with him.

Cindy filled you in on the specifics for the rest of the day and I have nothing to add except…I did find the monks fascinating. I was flattered when an older monk asked if he could take a photo of a younger monk with me. I said “absolutely” and immediately made a faux pas. I put my arm around the man’s shoulder and smiled for the camera. Just as quickly, Chan lunged at me and removed my arm from the shoulder. Just as if I was in the zoo, he blurted, “Don’t touch the monks!” How was I to know? Just call me another “ugly American.” Sorry guys, think I made us all look bad.  😔

Vientiane: Capital of Laos

“Every time you leave home,

Another road takes you

Into a world we’re never in.

New strangers on other paths await.” ~ John O’ Donahue 

Walking around Vientiane last night we encountered a quiet city. A group posed for a formal photograph. We thought at first they might be a group of young graduating police cadets. As we drew closer we realized they were a group of newly hired and trained Hard Rock Cafe employees, standing of course, on the steps of the newly opened Hard Rock Cafe.

We walked back towards our hotel and then took a detour through the park. At Vialy’s Steak House we stopped for appetizers. As we sat talking about our first impression of Laos we were served food that was all freshly made. After Hua Hin and Bangkok, Vientiane is so peaceful and quiet. The staff of the places we have stopped—the hotel, a bar, the restaurant are so helpful even though English is in short supply. This seems a more innocent city and perhaps one that is more willing to please than others we have visited. We find the slower pace, without the hustle of Thailand, welcome. That said, the traffics is still incredible. Crossing the street even at a crosswalk is an adventure.

On Thursday we began to explore the city. When we left the hotel we turned left this time. We came to the Presidential Palace and a wide boulevard. We soon decided to leave this street which was home to many governmental offices and international banks.

On the side street we came to a wine shop. Yes, can you believe it? A wine shop? Baravin Savor’s Club. Inside we found the staff having lunch so we browsed the wide selection of wine and liquors. There were few whites but a huge selection of reds—most if not all, from France. And so France, once ousted from Laos is still here.

Mr. Ken the store manager came to help us. He spoke English beautifully with a lovely French accent. He confessed to studying in both France and England. After purchasing a bottle of a French red blend and a small bottle of Johnnie Walker Black Label he made some recommendations. One was to have a glass of wine at 7th Heaven, the rooftop bar at La Seine Hotel.

Later that day our Sunset Food Tour guide didn’t show up which is a whole different story. In conciliation we went to the 7th Heaven bar to whine about our disappointment. But how can you whine when watching the sunset over the Mekong? So we didn’t. We enjoyed our wine, our appetizers, the attentive wait staff and the glorious sunset.

And Dennis says—

It’s Saturday morning, 8 AM and Cindy’s already on my butt about writing something for the blog. I feel like a third grader with the teacher prodding me to do my homework. Sheesh!! I look out the window and realize we’re probably in the safest place in town (not that it’s at all dangerous). Our hotel is right net door to the police station. Up the road are embassies from other countries around the world as well as the presidential palace of Laos. Yep, pretty safe here.

Presidential Palace

Looking out the window, I also see hundreds of electrical wire on poles extending for miles in all directions. I wonder if one goes out, how the heck do they trace it down and untangle the bundles. We’ve seen the same in other countries of SE Asia, especially Vietnam. 😱

One quick story about my traveling partner. Last night we took a tuk-tuk to a nice rooftop restaurant (see photos). The driver wanted 50,000 Kip ($3.00) to take us there. After a few drinks and dinner, we hailed another to take us back to our hotel. I asked, “How much?” He said, “70,000 Kip ($4.00).” I said, “No, 50,000 Kip” and we began to negotiate. Cindy steps in (without a welcome I might add) and tells me I gave the first driver 70,000 Kip. I tell her I know what I paid and it was 50,000. Now, I’m arguing with her and the driver. I gave up! I gave him 70,000 Kip with the caveat to her, “I’m trying to save us money as well.”

You’re probably thinking, “C’mon, it’s only a buck.” But it’s the principle that counts, right? It didn’t come down to pushing and shoving, wrestling on the ground between her and I but, I was right, right? You gotta stand up for what’s right. Which one of us gets an “atta boy/girl”? Sometimes being together 24/7 ain’t easy…😄   

This one gets a rebuttal from Cindy—

I am so sorry that I told him it was okay to make fun of me. He has responded much too enthusiastically. Next he’ll be telling you how I fell down in the airport in Bangkok trying to help him put on his backpack. Sheesh.