Vientiane: Capital of Laos

“Every time you leave home,

Another road takes you

Into a world we’re never in.

New strangers on other paths await.” ~ John O’ Donahue 

Walking around Vientiane last night we encountered a quiet city. A group posed for a formal photograph. We thought at first they might be a group of young graduating police cadets. As we drew closer we realized they were a group of newly hired and trained Hard Rock Cafe employees, standing of course, on the steps of the newly opened Hard Rock Cafe.

We walked back towards our hotel and then took a detour through the park. At Vialy’s Steak House we stopped for appetizers. As we sat talking about our first impression of Laos we were served food that was all freshly made. After Hua Hin and Bangkok, Vientiane is so peaceful and quiet. The staff of the places we have stopped—the hotel, a bar, the restaurant are so helpful even though English is in short supply. This seems a more innocent city and perhaps one that is more willing to please than others we have visited. We find the slower pace, without the hustle of Thailand, welcome. That said, the traffics is still incredible. Crossing the street even at a crosswalk is an adventure.

On Thursday we began to explore the city. When we left the hotel we turned left this time. We came to the Presidential Palace and a wide boulevard. We soon decided to leave this street which was home to many governmental offices and international banks.

On the side street we came to a wine shop. Yes, can you believe it? A wine shop? Baravin Savor’s Club. Inside we found the staff having lunch so we browsed the wide selection of wine and liquors. There were few whites but a huge selection of reds—most if not all, from France. And so France, once ousted from Laos is still here.

Mr. Ken the store manager came to help us. He spoke English beautifully with a lovely French accent. He confessed to studying in both France and England. After purchasing a bottle of a French red blend and a small bottle of Johnnie Walker Black Label he made some recommendations. One was to have a glass of wine at 7th Heaven, the rooftop bar at La Seine Hotel.

Later that day our Sunset Food Tour guide didn’t show up which is a whole different story. In conciliation we went to the 7th Heaven bar to whine about our disappointment. But how can you whine when watching the sunset over the Mekong? So we didn’t. We enjoyed our wine, our appetizers, the attentive wait staff and the glorious sunset.

And Dennis says—

It’s Saturday morning, 8 AM and Cindy’s already on my butt about writing something for the blog. I feel like a third grader with the teacher prodding me to do my homework. Sheesh!! I look out the window and realize we’re probably in the safest place in town (not that it’s at all dangerous). Our hotel is right net door to the police station. Up the road are embassies from other countries around the world as well as the presidential palace of Laos. Yep, pretty safe here.

Presidential Palace

Looking out the window, I also see hundreds of electrical wire on poles extending for miles in all directions. I wonder if one goes out, how the heck do they trace it down and untangle the bundles. We’ve seen the same in other countries of SE Asia, especially Vietnam. 😱

One quick story about my traveling partner. Last night we took a tuk-tuk to a nice rooftop restaurant (see photos). The driver wanted 50,000 Kip ($3.00) to take us there. After a few drinks and dinner, we hailed another to take us back to our hotel. I asked, “How much?” He said, “70,000 Kip ($4.00).” I said, “No, 50,000 Kip” and we began to negotiate. Cindy steps in (without a welcome I might add) and tells me I gave the first driver 70,000 Kip. I tell her I know what I paid and it was 50,000. Now, I’m arguing with her and the driver. I gave up! I gave him 70,000 Kip with the caveat to her, “I’m trying to save us money as well.”

You’re probably thinking, “C’mon, it’s only a buck.” But it’s the principle that counts, right? It didn’t come down to pushing and shoving, wrestling on the ground between her and I but, I was right, right? You gotta stand up for what’s right. Which one of us gets an “atta boy/girl”? Sometimes being together 24/7 ain’t easy…😄   

This one gets a rebuttal from Cindy—

I am so sorry that I told him it was okay to make fun of me. He has responded much too enthusiastically. Next he’ll be telling you how I fell down in the airport in Bangkok trying to help him put on his backpack. Sheesh.