Thursday, February 20, 2020

Finally found the one grump in Portugal

With Dennis at the wheel and Cynthia, the Navigator at the helm we headed out of Évora for Estremoz. It was a beautiful bright sunny day and the road was good with very little traffic. We passed pastures with grazing cattle and large pens of sheep waiting to be sheared. We drove right into town through a one car tunnel. You had to have faith when the light turned green that you wouldn’t meet another car in the middle, maybe a foreigner who didn’t understand how traffic lights work.  First stop, the Tourist Information Office and then up to the castle and the walled city.

Once inside, We walked around, admiring the views and then visited the museum.


The museum is a unique and fascinating place. No languages, other than Portuguese but we could recognize the names and dates of the founder, the woodcarver with his collection, the cork artist and his collection.  It was a bit more difficult with the carved bone spoons and wood spoons. There was a large collection of Bonica de Estremoz  (clay figures) which dated back to the 17th Century.  And there was a water closet.


Next Dennis began his climb up to the top of the tower where he got some fabulous photos.


Jim, Pat, and I went to the bar to wait with vinho branco.  Our Portuguese is getting really good. We can say Obrigada/o (thank you, fem/mas) and vinho Branco (white wine) and can probably make vinho tinto understood.  Dennis joined us and so did Elise who is the chef at the restaurant. She was delightful and she had many more words in English than we had in Portuguese. She has lived all over the world, including three countries in Africa, Italy, Spain and now she’s back home.
After our chat, we went back into the center of the walled city to drive back down into the new town to have lunch.

What did we find? The only grumpy, unsmiling person in all of Portugal! Unfortunately she was to be our waitress. We were given menus, bread and olives. A couple came in after us followed by a single diner.  They were given menus, drink orders were placed, their drinks were delivered, their food order was taken.  All the while we tired to catch Grumpy’s eye with smiles. Finally she came over, no, no Vinho Branco. So we tried to order, she turned around and left the room. We talked among ourselves for a moment  and decided to leave.  Dennis left €3 for the bread and olives. We weren’t sure what happened.  I’m not sure if we’re Ugly Americans or if she really is the only grumpy Portuguese in the world.

We stopped in a bakery to ask about a restaurant and the smiling clerk told us to go Cafe Rossi which was just across the street. Our waitress was all smiles and full of kindness and patience for our fumbling questions. The food was delicious and we took home a box of desserts for later, or maybe for breakfast.

On to the winery.
A 1200 year old olive tree 


Inspecting the vines
And what did we find here? A generous and smiling winery staff.  We should have had an appointment but we didn’t and our lady still gave us a tasting and would not charge us for it. We left with several bottles and the hope of finding it soon At home as they have just started exporting to to the USA.
The Gospel According to Dennis:
The toughest thing we have to deal with is getting used to the eating schedule of the Portuguese and Europeans, in general.  In the evening most restaurants don’t open until 7 PM.  Some are closed on Mondays, others are closed on Wednesdays. Even if we start eating at 7:30, by the time we finish, it’s 8:30 - 9:00 PM. We do lots of walking so if we’re back in our apartment by 10:00, we’re pooped and ready to hit the sack.  I don’t know about you but I don’t sleep well on a full stomach.  I know, I know, you’re saying, “Dude! Why don’t you eat less?” But the food and wine taste soooo good.  You’re probably also thinking many people in the world don’t get enough to eat and you? You get too much to eat, Fatty! C’mon, you can afford to miss a meal or two...just saying.

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